For the wonderfully weird, Monarch rules. Amid theatrical decor, try a martini with vinegar and Slippery Egg Crab Fried Fun. There is no destination in San Gabriel Valley like Monarch at 1212 South Baldwin Avenue. Merrill Shindler reviews the restaurant opened by the Leon family, who first brought us their take on Peruvian-Chinese cooking at Chifa in Eagle Rock. Monarch is serving modern Chinese cuisine.

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